We’ve finally made it out of Guaymas and find ourselves on the beautiful Baja side near Isla Coronados. This season, we’re exploring various anchorages in the Loreto region, both familiar and new, with no set plans other than flying back to Switzerland in mid-June.
It was time to try out the hidden gem recommended by ‘SV Cavu’: an anchorage not listed in Navionics, a popular navigation program. When the weather conditions were right, we leisurely sailed there, and we were happy to find that nobody else was there. We anchored using the GPS coordinates provided, and we immediately liked it there.
The Hidden Gem
We rowed ashore and explored the long, deserted beach, then climbed a nearby hill in search of the rumored village that supposedly housed a shop. Upon reaching the top, we spotted the cluster of houses and decided to pay it a visit the next day. In the evening, we packed a sunset beer and a beach ball set and rowed back to the shore. (Yes, we could have used our functioning outboard motor, but rowing is cozier and a good workout). It was fantastic to have everything to ourselves, except for the bobos – small, harmless, yet very annoying insects.
Yet Another Breakdown
Unfortunately, we couldn’t stay long at this beautiful spot because once again, there was a forecast of north wind. So, we sailed to the neighbouring Isla Carmen, which offered a lovely, protected bay: Bahia Colorado. On the way, it gradually became apparent that something was wrong with our not even 3-year-old B&G radio. We couldn’t hear anything, and the device in the cockpit connected via Wi-Fi and Bluetooth to the main unit refused to connect. The radio test was also unsuccessful. So, we were effectively deaf and mute. The AIS, the GPS position transmission, seemed to still work. Well, mostly.
Making Do with the Old
We had a sinking feeling that something might have gone wrong with the antenna or the cable. If so, it would be very troublesome and unsolvable until the end of the season. But to rule that out, we retrieved the old radios from the bilge and installed one indoors and one outdoors. Lo and behold, we immediately heard chatter on the radio indoors. But nothing outside. Then we switched the devices. Everything was audible indoors again, but not outside.
So, we knew: Everything was fine with the antenna, the cable to the navigation station, and the old devices, but the antenna cable to the cockpit was broken, too. At least we now had a working radio. We also spent about – not joking – 10 hours on hold with B&G. The result: the warranty had expired, the device was irreparable, and they could send us a new one at half price, but not to Mexico. Lovely.
Protection from the North Winds
Bahia Colorado was a beautiful bay with a rocky coastline on the southeast side of Isla Carmen. We explored it up and down with the kayak, as many rocks usually mean many pretty fish to look at. But it was still too cold for snorkelling. The north wind didn’t help either.
As soon as the wind subsided, we headed back to Isla Coronados, and essentially completing a circumnavigation of Isla Carmen. We had hoped for a stopover in a small, but very nice bay on the northeast side of Isla Carmen. But from the north, there was still an old swell that rolled into the bay, and we didn’t want to deal with the rolling.
A Long-awaited Goodie
The reason we wanted to go back to Coronados was specific: Bernie on ‘SV Momo’ was there. A few days earlier, he had sailed from Guaymas to the Baja side. And not only were we looking forward to see him, but he also had valuable cargo for us. Just before he left, I had bought a Sailrite sewing machine in Guaymas, and he had it on board. You might be wondering what a Sailrite sewing machine is. It’s a very strong industrial sewing machine that sews up to 12 layers in straight and zigzag stitches. I could even sew a sail if I wanted to. And I’ve wanted such a sewing machine since the beginning of our sailing journey. All previous sewing projects I have done on borrowed Sailrites, now I finally have my own.
High Time
In the following days, it became routine for Bernie to come over to our boat for an after-work or sunset drink, and we’d leisurely chat over a beer or two about everything and anything. Eventually, our supplies, especially the propane, ran out, and Bernie wanted to go a bit further north to spearfish. So, on a calm morning, we sailed back to Loreto for shopping. It was a good decision. Because just the evening before, we ran out of propane while cooking. Luckily, we have a portable induction plate for the morning coffee.
Meeting Up
We planned to do our shopping in Loreto in two trips, once for groceries and once for propane and diesel. Our dinghy didn’t have enough space for both. Once anchored there, we spotted the ship ‘Turquesa’ with Chris on board. We met him a few months ago north of Guaymas in an anchorage. On the way to the beach, we stopped by to chat with him. He spontaneously decided to come to the beach with us. So, we settled into a beach bar and enjoyed breakfast tacos. Bernie, in the meantime, was somewhere in town getting his hair cut.
Goodbye Bernie
Armed with our cart, we walked to the supermarket to replenish our supplies. The path led us along the attractive tourist mile, lined with trees and palms, ending at a church. On the way back, instead of ice cream, we treated ourselves to a delicious smoothie. When we got back to the beach by our dinghy, there was no sign of Bernie and ‘Momo’. He had already set off with his boat to the meeting point on the west side of Isla Coronados.
Mexican Hospitality
Meanwhile, we prepared for the second trip to town after storing the groceries. We grabbed our diesel cans and propane bottles and headed back to the beach. Chris was right behind us with his dog Max and his propane bottle. At the front of the street, I asked a Mexican where we could find a taxi. He just told me to wait a moment. Shortly after, he came back and said his friends could drive us.
A Bit Overweight
When the rather old and battered car pulled up, I asked again if he was sure: we’re 3 people, 1 dog, 3 propane bottles, and 3 diesel cans. He just said “yes, of course” and opened the trunk. We stashed all the bottles there and then squeezed onto the back seat. Pretty packed, with the cans still empty, we touched the asphalt at the first speed bump. But it didn’t bother them, and they continued to enjoy their beers. They told us they were fishermen and where in the area you could best catch the coveted yellowtail amberjacks. After refuelling with diesel and propane, the car was even more of a lowrider, but still our two new friends didn’t see any problem hauling us around town. They then dropped us back at the beach where we handed them a tip for their random act of kindness.
The Superyacht
When we looked towards Coronados, we saw that there must have been a huge boat at anchor. Bernie shortly sent us the link to the super yacht ‘La Datcha’, as he was anchored right next to her. David noticed two private jets approaching Loreto, and shortly after, two helicopters heading towards Isla Coronados. You read that right – 252ft-long ‘La Datcha’ carries not only one but two helicopters! But see for yourself: ’La Datcha’. That same evening, we also anchored next to ‘La Datcha’ and Bernie.
Heading North
The plan was to sail or probably motor about 20 miles north (about 4 hours under motor), as there wasn’t really any wind forecasted for the next day. But we didn’t mind. Our engine only consumes about 2.5 l/h. When I woke up early the next morning and put the coffee water on, I saw that Bernie was already gone and nowhere to be seen on the horizon. When we were ready to lift anchor, Bernie messaged that he had already arrived. He couldn’t sleep and had set off at 3 in the morning. Alright then.
Break for Burrito
We lifted the anchor without expecting any wind, but further north, we saw boats with sails hoisted. So, we prepared everything so that we could sail too. There really was enough wind to sail, and Burrito could take another break. We hoisted the sails and sailed leisurely north. In the south bay of San Juanico, six hours later, we dropped anchor next to Bernie. He paddled over shortly after with beer and self-caught and smoked mackerel. What a treat!
San Juanico
Bernie was ready for spearfishing, as the water temperature was finally acceptable, and San Juanico had excellent reefs for snorkelling and hunting. David was also ready. Unfortunately, David’s spear gun gave up the ghost while loading: the rubber bands were brittle and tore immediately. The same happened with my swim fins. The heat and salt just don’t do the material any favours. But luckily, we still had more fins on board, and Bernie had his own spear gun, so I could snorkel, and Bernie could catch fish. By the way, it was my first snorkelling of the season; before, it was simply too cold.
Back South Again
So, we spent a few relaxed days in this beautiful bay, and it became routine for Bernie to catch a fish, David to clean and fillet it, me to cook some menu out of it, and then all three of us to have dinner together in our cockpit. Sometimes it was fish and chips, sometimes ceviche, sometimes butterfish in wine cream sauce. Unfortunately, another north wind was forecasted, bringing an end to those days. We decided to sail back south again because we were about to meet with sailors from our time at the Cabrales Boatyard in Puerto Peñasco.
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