On the morning of David’s departure, Pete and Nicole picked us up from the marina for one last breakfast together. After a somewhat mediocre meal at the hotel buffet across from the bus station, David embarked on his 52-hour journey to Bangkok. Pete, Nicole, and I then headed to the opposite end of Guaymas, to the sea. Our destination was the ‘Perlas del Mar de Cortez’ pearl farm, where Pete had arranged a tour for us.

Local Pearls

Our tour guide, Fernando, was clearly passionate about pearls. With great enthusiasm, he led us to the Palappa by the sea, where they worked with the oysters. The process takes years – from collecting the baby oyster, inserting the nucleus, to finally harvesting the pearl itself. Originally a research facility, the farm now operates as an independent business. According to Fernando, the Sea of Cortez pearls, though cultivated, are unique. He showed us their range of colours and a special feature: under UV light, they glow red.

Back to Milagros

After the tour, I returned to the boat. It felt strange being alone on Milagros at anchor for the first time. A year earlier, David had been in Bangkok for two weeks, but then Nicole had visited, and I was docked at the Kingdom of El Mero for only a few days alone. Being alone at anchor is no issue – many solo sailors do it all the time.

A Bit Uncomfortable

However, something made it slightly uncomfortable: a strong, persistent north wind was forecasted. According to other sailors, one boat in the bay didn’t handle anchoring well and would drift across the bay in strong winds. Normally, David wakes up at any sound, while I sleep through. I was curious to see how things would go.

Nearly Freezing Temperatures

The first night brought a blast of icy wind from the north, dropping temperatures below 10°C. You might think that’s not too bad, but without heating, it was quite chilly. With 7 Beaufort (30 knots / 55 km/h) winds whipping over the water and buffeting Milagros, I trusted our anchoring, our anchor, and Milagros itself, but I set the anchor alarm and regularly checked our position. After a particularly strong gust, other sailors would check in to see if I was okay. Though sleeping through was impossible, but usually, the wind would die down by 3 am, allowing me to spend the last part of the night in dreamland.

A New View

Until now, we could only read the wind speed from the chart plotter in the cockpit, but it was too cold for that. So, I unpacked a yet-to-be-installed display, connected it to our data system (for those interested: an NMEA 2000 backbone), and set it up on the chart table. This way, I could comfortably see the wind speed from the aft cabin bed, through the tunnel.

It’s Over

Once the north wind had passed, my time at anchor came to an end too. While vacuuming the cabin one morning, I discovered water damage under the stairs leading to the cockpit. I opened the floorboards to find 5 cm (2”) of standing water in the bilge. Tasting it, I found it was salty. With the water damage above the floor, there weren’t many possibilities for its source, only one: the saltwater foot pump, which was indeed dripping. Unfortunately, we had neither a spare pump nor a maintenance kit on board.

Moving In

This pump is crucial for us, as we use it for washing dishes to save fresh water. Normally, we have a watermaker, but we don’t use it in places like Guaymas to avoid damaging the membrane with polluted sea water and, frankly, we wouldn’t want to drink the water from this cesspool. Anchored far out and not wanting to lug water back and forth, I booked a spot in the marina.

A Parting Gift

On a calm morning, neighbour Randy came over in his dinghy to help bring Milagros into the marina. Retrieving the anchor chain took surprisingly long because a nasty, slimy black muck clung to the chain, and we had to spray off every one of the 40 meters (130 ft) so it wouldn’t end up in the anchor locker. Finally, the anchor windlass struggled to lift the anchor. I thought Milagros had lined up the next project for us. But it turned out to be a gift. Our Bruce anchor had snagged a tyre for us, how thoughtful. Things could only get better.

Hello, Fonatur

And they did. I docked Milagros at a snail’s pace in the marina, while Shay and Yona from SV Holoholo and other dock neighbours took our lines. With Milagros securely tied up, it was easier to leave her alone. I had a hike in San Carlos on my list that I wanted to do: climbing one of the peaks of the local mountain, ‘Tetakawi’, colloquially known as ‘Teta de Cabra’ (Goat’s Teat) due to its shape.

Climbing the Teat

Nicole immediately agreed to my suggestion of climbing one of the teats. They kindly picked me up in Guaymas, and after a fortifying taco lunch, Pete dropped us off at the base of Tetakawi. We amusedly inspected a huge poster from the local tourism authority advising to bring at least 3 litres of water, wear good hiking shoes, and recommending gloves and a local guide. We, as hikers from Switzerland, found this somewhat exaggerated for a hike that was supposed to take a total of 2 hours.

The Climb

Following the trail, which was well-marked by Mexican standards, we knew it wouldn’t be a walk in the park as we looked up at our destination. Initially, it was a simple stone path uphill, but later we had to climb over large rocks and rubble mixed with sand. Near the summit, we even had to use ropes someone had fixed. As I pulled myself up, I wondered if we could trust Mexican ropes, all too familiar with the ‘well-intentioned and then forgotten’.

And Down Again

The ropes held, and we reached the summit in 50 minutes, enjoying the fantastic view and catching our breath. It was indeed no stroll. The descent was challenging, too. Our shoes lacked sufficient grip for the sandy rubble mix. Nicole slid down on her seat, while I scrambled down on hands and knees. The poster at the start of the hike was justified after all.

Among Neighbours

Being in the marina felt like living in a neighbourhood. Everyone knew each other, greeted each other, and helped out. For example, Shay and Yona wanted to buy a larger anchor similar to ours, so I lent them ours for a trial fit. And neighbour Gavin helped me cut aluminium rails for our new grill’s railing mount, as I really don’t like the grinder.

Lucky Break

As the in-house baker for Keith on SV Aurora, I baked special muffins for their next sailing afternoon, and Pete picked them up from me at the marina. I was invited too but chose not to go for various reasons. In hindsight, I was relieved to have declined, as Steve, one of the sailors, passed away from a heart attack en route. He was a boat owner in the Kingdom of El Mero, had reached the age of 83, and took his last breath doing something he loved. It could be worse.

A Success

The maintenance kit for the foot pump finally arrived with the all-Saturday delivery from the USA. Eagerly, I dismantled the part and opened it. I had been warned: in many cases, the pump still leaks after maintenance. The internet suggested this was because the kit comes without instructions, leading to the seals and diaphragms being installed backwards. So, I paid extra attention during disassembly and took photos of everything.

Unicorn Power

Still, I wasn’t spared a typical boat moment. Upon opening, the pump spring jumped out in two pieces instead of one. And, of course, the maintenance kit didn’t include a new spring. Where to find such a spring in Guaymas was beyond me. I spontaneously asked our continental man, Lukas from Poland. He immediately asked for the spring’s dimensions, as he was having coffee with Richard. It’s worth noting that Richard’s large steel boat is said to carry at least another sailing ship in parts. Three minutes later, I received a picture of a unicorn with the sought-after spring. Thirty minutes later, it was delivered, and another thirty minutes after that, the pump was overhauled, installed, and leak-free!

Something Else to Do

While I was peacefully tinkering away, it suddenly hit me that I needed to renew my visa. I was allowed to stay until the end of April, but that was cutting it close. And it wouldn’t be as easy as from Guaymas later on. Last year, I could drive the 450 km to Nogales on the Arizona border with Keith, but this time I faced a bus journey. According to the bus company, it took about 5.5 hours each way.

To the US Border

On the Friday before David’s return, a taxi picked me up at 6 am, and the bus left at 6:30 am. After an endless 7 hours, I finally reached Nogales. Another 20 minutes and I was at the immigration office, where at exactly 2 pm, my passport was stamped with a 180-day stay permit. Afterwards, I wandered the streets and enjoyed a lovely lunch.

A Long Journey

The website listed buses back at 3:30 pm and 4:00 pm, easy. I arrived at the bus station by taxi in good time. Then, oh dear. Both buses were fully booked, and the next available was not until 5:00 pm. Eventually, I got back to the boat at 11:00 pm, making it a 17-hour round trip. Along the way, I discovered something interesting: I had, by chance, renewed my visa on the exact same day for the last three years.

The Other Side of the World

Meanwhile, David was enjoying his rainforest shower, relaxing by the hotel pool after work, and exploring Bangkok on his free days. He also had the chance to spend a day in Tokyo on his way there. Here are a few impressions:

If you’ve enjoyed reading and found value in what we share, kindly consider supporting our work with a donation. Your contribution, no matter how small, will help us continue delivering quality content and keep our journey alive. You can become a monthly supporter on Patreon or contribute via the button below. Thank you so much!

Der Beitrag Pati Home Alone erschien zuerst auf Milagros.

So there we were, anchoring for the first time in six months, and it felt splendid. Our anchoring manoeuvre was a success, even though we initially fell into an old pattern. Approaching an anchorage, finding it overcrowded, turning around, reconsidering as it didn’t seem so bad after all, and then anchoring. This time, a mooring buoy in the midst of the bay had confused us.

Getting Our Sea Legs Back

We had to regain our sea legs and recall all the procedures. What exactly does one do after anchoring, and in what order? Ah yes, the anchor light needs to be switched on. The snubber for the anchor chain is somewhere in the cockpit locker. And we mustn’t forget the anchor tracker – after all, we want to know if our anchor holds.

A Feast for the Senses

It was magnificent when we shut off the engine and could finally relish the silence. Over a beer, we toasted to our successful relaunch and everything else. A shrimp snack followed immediately. While exiting the Guaymas channel, a panga with two young fishermen approached us, offering shrimp for sale. We agreed instantly, exchanged shrimp for pesos and two beers. The shrimp, whole and freshly caught (unlike our fiasco in Peñasco), were delicious sautéed in garlic butter.

Our New Dinghy

Next, we got to launch our new dinghy and test the outboard motor for the first time. It went smoothly. We took a short excursion to the beach, meeting other sailors returning from a hike to the lighthouse. Their directions were simple: keep the power lines in view, and you’re on the right track.

First, a Coffee

After completing our online work the next morning, we turned off Starlink, packed our backpack with water and snacks, and set off for the beach. En route, we stopped by Shannon and Rob’s ‘Ocean Villa’ for a coffee. They were preparing to cross the Sea of Cortez with their grand steel yacht.

An Impressive Vessel

Their boat is truly impressive. Originally built for a family, it boasts four bunks for children at the bow and a large aft cabin for parents. Between them lies a spacious galley with a dining table and a deck salon with sofas. Above, there’s a pilot house and a ‘terrace’ for lounging. Shannon and Rob use this ocean villa for charter trips around La Paz. If you’re ever in the area, check it out.

Heading to the Lighthouse

When it was time, we said our farewells and headed for the beach. The path wasn’t clear initially, but we spotted footprints and goat hoofprints, with the power lines guiding us. The trail led through a sandy, rocky landscape, dotted with small trees and prickly bushes, ascending the hillside.

Faro Cabo Haro

Atop, we enjoyed a stunning view of the rocky coastline and the vast sea. Following the path along the ridge, we could see the ‘Faro Cabo Haro’ lighthouse in the distance. As we approached, two dogs ran towards us. The brown one greeted us enthusiastically, while the black-and-white one kept its distance. They accompanied us for the rest of the way, healthy and well-fed, though their reason for being there was unclear.

The Lighthouse Keeper

At the lighthouse, we met Omar, the keeper. He invited us to join him to sit on the steps, sharing that the lighthouse operates around the clock, vital for cargo ships and the navy. He works a week at a time, in solitude except for the dogs. He occasionally receives visitors but rarely converses due to the language barrier. Every Saturday morning, it’s shift change for a week.

Beach Cleanup

A path from the lighthouse led down to a small beach, the transfer point for the keepers. We were appalled to find the beach littered with trash. We spent the next half-hour cleaning up, filling crates with plastic bottles, shoes, toys, lines, and other debris. We moved them as far from the water as possible, knowing the next storm might sweep them back to sea.

Goodbye, Ocean Villa

On our way back, we passed the lighthouse again. Omar pointed out a large white yacht with blue underwater paint leaving the bay – it was ‘Ocean Villa’. We watched it sway in the swell, hoping their crossing wouldn’t be too rough.

Anchor Problems

Reaching our dinghy, we saw Pete and Nicole on ‘Swansong’ entering the bay, struggling to anchor. We went over, and Pete explained their anchor windlass had issues. I boarded to assist, and we decided he should anchor without the windlass to address the problem later.

Boat Projects Galore

We celebrated Pete’s successful launch with an ‘anchor beer’ and pondered the windlass’ malfunction. Our theories ranged from a blockage to a power issue. We found the winch’s main fuse switch turned off – fortunately, nothing was broken. We also fixed his toilets, which weren’t drawing water, by adding some to the pumps.

New Year’s Preparations

For New Year’s, with little wind forecast, we wanted to try a new anchorage, less sheltered. Both ‘Milagros’ and ‘Swansong’, without foresails or tuned rigging, motored around the corner to this beautiful bay with clear turquoise water, inaccessible by land except by off-road vehicle.

A Convoy

Exploring ashore, we saw a convoy of SUVs heading for the beach, equipped for the terrain. It was a men’s outing – one man per vehicle. They deflated their tyres and continued over the beach and gravel road, occasionally getting stuck but freeing themselves.

Till Midnight

We spent a cosy New Year’s Eve in Milagros’ cockpit with Pete and Nicole, enjoying tacos and drinks. Surprisingly, we stayed awake till midnight, unlike last year when we barely made it to ‘sailor’s midnight’ at 9 pm. Waking up the next morning, ‘Swansong’ had already left to dock in San Carlos, taking advantage of the calm weather.

Dealing with a List

We used the quiet bay to work on ‘Milagros’. We tuned the rigging and mounted our foresail, admiring the new grey UV protection I had added at the boatyard. We also addressed a slight list. Since removing the old, heavy batteries from the port engine room, ‘Milagros’ had been leaning to starboard. The previous owner had installed lead bars as counterweights. We moved these bars to the bilge, balancing the boat but pondering what to do with so much lead.

Returning to Guaymas

Soon after it was time to sail back to Guaymas. Reluctantly, we left the tranquil anchorage, knowing the noise, dirt, and crowds awaiting us. But it was necessary, as David soon had to fly to Bangkok for work. I would spend nearly 20 days alone on the boat, so we chose to anchor near Fonatur Marina in Guaymas, next to the Malecón – not picturesque, but practical.

A Bad Omen?

Pete and Nicole joined us for breakfast on David’s departure day. We opted for the hotel buffet in front of the bus station, witnessing a pigeon fatally colliding with a TV under the awning. We hoped it wasn’t a bad omen for the weeks ahead.

Goodbye, David

Then it was time for David to embark on his half-world journey to Bangkok: Hermosillo – Mexico City – Tokyo – Bangkok, a 52-hour trip! And there I was, alone on the boat at anchor for the first time…

Did you enjoy this blog post? If you want to, you can buy us a beer by clicking on the button below or become a monthly supporter on Patreon. Thank you so much!

Der Beitrag Returning to Familiar Shores erschien zuerst auf Milagros.

The Boatyard Existence

Our tenure in the Boatyard extended beyond our initial plans, and we often found ourselves grappling with the challenges posed by the persistent dust, sand, noise, and an array of other discomforts. Faced with two options—either to succumb to frustration or to make the most of our situation—we oscillated between the two, sometimes sulking, sometimes embracing the circumstances. In a lighter vein, we volunteered to assist other sailors with their ventures, an ironic twist considering our list of pending tasks on Milagros. One such instance was joining Justine’s painting team.

Boat Painting Ventures

Our task was to paint her boat’s freeboard, a project that saw us applying sky blue paint, aesthetically pleasing but technically challenging. This wasn’t merely cosmetic paint, but a type designed for oil rigs, necessitating a thick, protective single coating that dried swiftly and hardened like rock. Achieving a smooth finish without visible streaks and lines proved challenging.

Consecutive Challenges

After multiple attempts, experimenting with various mix ratios, brush types, and contending with the elements like wind and sun, we triumphantly accomplished this task. Our team, self-dubbed the “Rig Pigs”, comprised David as the painter, Justine handling the final touches, and myself in a support role, proved to be a successful combination.

Material Acquisition

One morning, Keith arrived at our boat with the long-awaited engine mounts. Eager to start installing them, Keith had a different plan: “I brought these blocks, now come sailing with me.”

Return to El Mero

Dismissing half a day’s delay, we hastily prepared and joined Keith, along with Pete and Justine, heading to the former Kingdom of El Mero‘s remnants. We had spent time there last winter before a storm nearly destroyed it in July. And Keith had crafted two dock spots for his sailboats from left over materials.

Sailing Interlude

Launching Keith’s 54-foot boat, Aurora, proved tricky. We accidentally grazed a couple of crooked pillars while avoiding damage to ourselves over the boat. A solar panel was the only casualty. And when hoisting the sail, we had to improvise as the mainsail’s foot wasn’t secured properly, quickly fixing it with a rope.

Island Circumnavigation

With sails raised, our journey took us around a small island near Guaymas. Upon reaching the island’s leeward side, Justine took a spontaneous swim, relishing the cool waters. As we returned, we noticed all boats at El Mero tilted due to low tide. Opting to anchor offshore overnight, we encountered issues with a non-functioning anchor windlass and had to rely on guesswork for the anchor chain scope.

The Return to Shore

Keith, his daughter, and Tom stayed aboard while other cruisers helped us ashore. The next morning, we returned to El Mero to assist with docking. Hauling up the anchor by hand proved a good workout. A problem with Aurora’s gear lever required Keith to manually engage it from below deck, causing brief confusion with the boat moving backwards first. Despite the challenges, docking was successful.

Engine Room Endeavours

Back at the Boatyard, we dedicated ourselves to the installation of the engine mounts on our boat. Replacing three went smoothly, but the final one proved obstinate, its head snapping off in a hard-to-reach spot. After failing to drill it out over two days, we left it, resorted to epoxy, and drilled a new hole.

Motor Alignment Challenges

Next was engine alignment, where we hit another snag. I just couldn’t align it to the required precision of 1/1000″ (0.03 mm). Dismantling everything, I found the issue: dents on the surface of the shaft coupling, likely from a fall or a hit. After filing it carefully down, we managed to aligne the engine in an instant.

Fitting the Shaft Brake

Installing the shaft brake was next and another hurdle. This brake is crucial for preventing shaft rotation while sailing, a necessity due to our hydraulic gearbox. The process was arduous, but after much trial and error and a night’s rest, we successfully installed the brake, readying Milagros for launching.

Pre-Launch Preparations

With Christmas approaching, we hoped to spend it on water, but it was dashed by the yard’s schedule, delaying our launch until December 26. This gave us more time for preparations: testing the engine, applying antifouling, stocking up on diesel, gasoline, water, and provisions, and tidying up. We also enjoyed more time with Nicole and Pete. You might remember: Nicole from Switzerland visited us one year ago, now she’s visiting Pete.

Embracing Christmas

Christmas in Mexico is a vibrant affair, starting December 1st with traditional treats and drinks abound. We exchanged traditional delicacies with the boatyard workers, savouring Buñuelos from crane operator Mario and Champurrado from Roberto, while offering homemade Spitzbuben in return.

Our Christmas celebration was low-key, mainly video calls with family and friends and toasting with Nicole and Pete. We planned a barbecue and a movie night for Christmas Eve and a potluck with yard residents on Christmas Day.

The Anticipated Launch

With the launch imminent, we were apprehensive about the strong winds forecasted. The day of the launch arrived with challenging weather conditions, prompting us to reconsider. We didn’t feel confident to back out of the slip and turn the boat around with up to 20 kts in such tight quarterts. After much deliberation and a lack of conviction from various parties, we decided against launching in the gusty winds.

Rethinking Our Strategy

Determined to proceed, we requested the yard workers to lift Milagros and position her for a forward exit from the lift. This required removing first the forestay and then the backstay. This plan, too, had its share of drama: a hydraulic oil leak from the lift, but the staff assured us it was minor.

Launch Day Arrives

Finally, the next morning, Milagros was successfully launched. Walking under the lift, I felt a drop of hydraulic oil on my neck. But Milagros was in the water, all through-hulls dry, all systems functioning, and the engine started immediately. “Lines off!” We were finally moving.

Goodbye, Boatyard!

Leaving the Boatyard behind, we said goody bye, hopefully forever. Hasta not la vista! Memories of the dirt and toil began to fade within minutes, and soon it felt like we were never there. Peacefully, we sailed past Guaymas’ Malécon to a serene anchorage, closing the chapter of our Boatyard saga.

Cheers to the successful launch! If you want, you can celebrate with us by buying us a beer with a click on the button below. You can also become a monthly contributor by heading over to Patreon. Thanks a lot!

Der Beitrag Hasta Not La Vista erschien zuerst auf Milagros.

The Chewed Gum Conundrum

First, let’s rewind a bit. Our setting is Guaymas, in the midst of the bustling boatyard, where our spirits were dampened by prolonged frustrations. The anticipated three-week stay had overstretched, turning the drive shaft project into a relentless ordeal, akin to an over-chewed piece of gum – tough and lacking any semblance of pleasure. David had mentioned in his latest blog post about our urgent need for new engine mounts. Fortunately, we swiftly located a supplier, though the delivery was less than swift.

Batteries and Breakthroughs

On a brighter note, we achieved a significant milestone: the successful installation and commissioning of our new lithium batteries, specifically lithium iron phosphate ones. This task was not without its tedium, necessitating meticulous testing of each battery before installation. The advantages, however, were numerous: significantly reduced size and weight, deeper discharge capabilities, and no daily full charging required. To illustrate, our three former AGM batteries collectively tipped the scales at 210 kg (460 lbs) with a usable capacity of 380 Ah out of 765 Ah. In contrast, our trio of new lithium batteries weighs a mere 66 kg (145 lbs) while offering a usable capacity of 410 Ah out of 510 Ah – a remarkable improvement.

A Humorous Tale with Batteries

We experienced a rather amusing incident involving our batteries. Prior to our summer hiatus, we purchased from fellow sailors, Coy and Kalina, two batteries which they had only used for a few months. However, during our testing phase, one of the batteries exhibited unexpected behaviour. We promptly informed Coy about the issue, and he planned to file a warranty claim with Renogy. As we had not received any updates from him during our stay in Switzerland, we decided to order a new battery. Coincidentally, there was a promotional offer: ‘buy one, get a second at 50% discount’, prompting us to buy two batteries instead of one.

An Abundance of Batteries

Shortly after our purchase, Coy sent us an image of the brand-new replacement battery he received through the warranty claim. This was a pleasant surprise. Further, we later discovered that the ‘faulty’ battery was, in fact, in good working condition. Thus, we unexpectedly found ourselves with a total of five batteries, whereas we initially wanted only two. Fortunately, serendipity played its part when another sailor in the boatyard expressed a need for two lithium batteries. Hence, two of our excess batteries found a new home just a couple of boats away.

Revived and Resplendent

Master painter David, responsible for our deck’s fresh coat, also remedied some paint damage on the freeboard caused by the Travelift’s straps and another mysterious source. The result? Milagros was now gleaming, arguably the most stunning vessel in the vicinity, a sentiment we proudly shared.

Quest for an Outboard Engine

While awaiting engine parts, we ventured to Puerto Peñasco for an outboard motor. In May, we had seized the opportunity to replace our ailing inflatable dinghy with a more robust plastic sailing dinghy. This upgrade offered numerous benefits: lighter weight, no air loss, easier rowing, and sail capability. However, its lightness meant limited stern weight capacity. Our trusty 4 HP four-stroke, weighing nearly 30 kg (60 lbs), was too hefty, prompting the need for a lighter alternative. Fortunately, I stumbled upon a perfect fit in Peñasco: a 13 kg (29 lbs), 3.3 HP two-stroke.

An Unplanned Road Trip

The dilemma was transporting the outboard motor 600 km back to Guaymas. Thus, we decided to retrieve the outboard ourselves. Joined by Pete from SV Swan Song, awaiting his deck’s painting, we embarked on an impromptu road trip, armed with snacks and tunes.

Dodging Potholes

Opting for toll roads to avoid the infamous potholes of the alternative route – rumored to be 5 m (15 ft) wide and 2 m (7 ft) deep – we successfully navigated around the lesser but still treacherous potholes off the toll roads.

A Whirlwind of Activities

David, adept at securing Airbnbs, found us delightful beachside accommodation, which unexpectedly got upgraded to a beachfront house. Though our time to bask in this luxury was limited, given our jam-packed schedule: picking up the outboard, reuniting with old friends, showing Pete around, indulging in the finest Pastor Tacos, and more, all within less than 24 hours.

A Fortuitous Turn

Our afternoon arrival in Puerto Peñasco, followed by the collection of the outboard and check-in, was met with an intriguing proposition by the landlord. Originally planning to return to Guaymas the next morning, his offer to extend our stay for free, due to sparse tourism, was an unexpected boon. This stroke of luck for us, though unfortunate for the locals, was a result of a recently closed border crossing north of Puerto Peñasco.

The Quiet Town

The border guards there had been withdrawn to assist with surging asylum claims from refugees from Central and South America and African countries like Eritrea, Ghana, Ethiopia, and Cameroon. This shift, following the repeal of Trumps ‘Title 42’ in May, reinstated the right to asylum procedures for those setting foot on US soil.

Extended Leisure

With the beach, restaurants, and city almost to ourselves, we decided to indulge in an extra night. After all, there was ‘nothing’ pressing back on Milagros. A quick call extended our car rental, making the extra day possible.

Familiar Faces and Fond Memories

Back at the Cabrales Boatyard, we were greeted by more familiar faces than anticipated. Our encounters spanned numerous sailors, each exchange filled with stories and updates since we left Peñasco in February 2022. The camaraderie and sense of community were palpable, almost overwhelming in its warmth.

A Sense of Home

The boatyard, with its familiar faces, favourite eateries, and overall ambience, evoked a sense of home. In the spirit of being in the shrimp capital, we procured a kilo from our trusted fishmonger, planning a garlic butter feast for dinner, much to Pete’s anticipation.

The Last Gringos

Our day unfolded with moderate culinary delights, the world’s best donuts from Candy Cake, a serene beach stroll, and a visit to the deserted Malécon. The closed border had rendered Puerto Peñasco a ghost town, a situation we found appealing yet bittersweet for the locals. An encounter with a local, who jokingly dubbed us ‘the last gringos’, led to a heartfelt conversation about the prevailing uncertainty. He and his girlfriend, working in a pharmacy and a restaurant, respectively, were directly affected by the downturn. His parting offer of a significant discount on medicines and sunglasses was both generous and telling of the situation.

The Shrimp Fiasco

Our afternoon snack at Pane y Vino, boasting Mexico’s finest Pizza Margherita, preluded our evening plans. Aftera farewell drink on SV Lodos and a visit to SV Liquid we went back to our beach house for the shrimp dinner.

Unfortunately, the shrimps’ odd smell, initially dismissed by the crew, turned out to be a tell-tale sign of spoilage, confirmed by an unpleasant ammonia scent upon cooking. The meal was a bust, but the seagulls reaped the benefits of our misfortune. Thankfully, our earlier snack lessened the disappointment.

A Satisfying Conclusion

Our final day began with a return to the boatyard, heartfelt farewells, and a last indulgence in Candy Cake’s Apple Fritters. Our timely return of the rental car in Guaymas and some yummy pastor tacos marked the end of a memorable and largely successful excursion, a reminder that sometimes, things indeed fall pleasantly into place.

Let’s toast to this successful mission. You can buy us a beer with a click on the button below. You can also become a monthly contributor by heading over to Patreon. Thanks a lot!

Der Beitrag The Last Gringos: A Voyage to Beginnings erschien zuerst auf Milagros.

Now, it has been a full four weeks since we arrived. Our original plan was to limit our time in dry dock to a maximum of three weeks. We aimed to be back in the water a week ago. Did it happen? Of course not. As the saying goes, everything takes twice as long when you’re on a boat. We’re still actively engaged in preparing for the upcoming season. It’s the familiar dance of two steps forward, one step back, two steps forward, one step back.

We’re lacking motiviation

Upon our arrival, we took a week to unwind. We soaked up the sun, which was over 30°C warm, worked on our computers, and tidied up the boat. Our enthusiasm to return to Milagros was not at its peak. It’s not so much about Milagros herself – she’s now a radiant and beautiful sailboat with her brand new deck paintjob – but more about us. The last season was a mixed experience, and we simply cherish being at home everytime we’re there. We could have easily prolonged our stay in Switzerland by another three months. However, the flights were booked, and it was time to head back to Mexico.

Holà Mexico! We’re back!

Thus, we commenced our return at a leisurely pace. Initially, our task was to clear Milagros of all the dust and dirt that had accumulated on the deck. For the remaining time, we embraced relaxation and settled into our second home in Mexico. We fully immersed ourselves in vacation mode, enjoying social gatherings with friends such as Rob and Sarah on SV Mapache 2.0, savoring evening beers in the enchanting light of dusk.

A very special invite

As if we weren’t already in vacation mode, David the painter graciously invited us for an afternoon boat trip around Guaymas and San Carlos. Our good friend Pete, whom we had also hosted in Switzerland, joined the crew. Meeting up with the other David and his family outside the Oxxo next to the boatyard, armed with snacks and beer, we set off. Along the way, we came across a group of dolphins, and both Davids wasted no time in taking a refreshing dip in their jeans. The enjoyable moments continued to unfold!

Out with the old, in with the new

However, lazing around was not an option for us. We had a substantial to-do list, including two major projects, alongside the usual 8,000 smaller tasks that needed completion.

• Our first major undertaking was to replace our old battery bank with a state-of-the-art lithium battery bank. The significant advantage of lithium batteries lies in their ability to discharge more, providing us with significantly more power at once.
  
• The attempt to install a new propeller shaft had encountered setbacks during the summer, and now we had to persevere with this project.

Our focus shifted to the removal of the old batteries. Extracting three massive AGM batteries, each weighing approximately 60kg, from the engine room was no small feat. With this accomplished, we suddenly had half of the engine room available for innovative ideas. As depicted in the photos, I even contemplated transforming that space into my new cabin.

Everything takes longer as usual

Meanwhile, we were also dedicated to the shaft project. Our initial plan was to install the new propeller shaft in July. However, due to various setbacks and delays, the project had to be temporarily shelved. Fortunately, our dependable mechanic, Salomon, already had the new version in his workshop. Thus, it was just a matter of time until our new shaft could be installed. Or so we thought. Unfortunately, the new propeller shaft had to make three return trips to the workshop for additional adjustments, causing further delays. Finally, after these setbacks, we could direct our focus to the installation. Yet, even four weeks later, the installation remains incomplete.

The bent shaft is mind-bending

It’s another Sisyphean endeavor. We aim for perfection to avoid any future issues, and achieving this demands considerable mental effort and, inevitably, more time. Precise alignment of all bearings, seals, couplings, and the installation of our new shaft brake are essential tasks. As you might anticipate, progress seems to follow the pattern of two steps forward, one step back, two steps forward, one step back.

The snowball effect

The classic snowball effect reared its head once again in this scenario. Initially, our plan was to install a new self-aligning ball bearing. However, the onset of rust on the bearing after just three months of sitting around in the ship prompted a change of plans. We opted to go with the old plain bearing. That decision led us to an unwelcome revelation: the bearing was worn out and required recasting, with play measuring 0.2mm instead of the expected 0.04mm (!!).

Upon the installation of the newly cast bearing, another unpleasant discovery surfaced: we needed to replace and elevate the supports on our engine. This is the consequence of a more thorough examination necessitated by the shaft. The duration of this undertaking remains uncertain…

Partying the Mexican way

In addition to our work on computers and Milagros, we’re indulging in our usual enjoyment. For instance, we received an invitation to a typical Mexican house party. Painter David welcomed family and friends to unwind at his place. And unwind we did. The entire neighborhood resonated with the lively beats of “Tecnobanda” – two young women passionately drumming to pulsating Mexican music from colossal speakers. I was truly impressed by their skills and even had the opportunity to try it out, much to the amusement of the party. While my performance was decent, I couldn’t quite match the proficiency of the two girls, no matter how hard I tried. Respect!

Nico the little pirate

On a different evening, we took care of Nico, the son of Rendt and Marea on SV New Life. They were celebrating their anniversary and wanted a pleasant evening, so the not-so-little Nico stayed with us. We did our best to keep him entertained with our limited children’s gear. The highlight of the evening was the assortment of plush mascots that accompany us, most of which are gifts from our friends in Switzerland. We think we did a commendable job. The evening included pizza, drawing, playing with the stuffed animals, and writing cute letters to his parents.

We’re back in Mexico

And thus, the days swiftly passed, and we gradually reacclimated ourselves with Milagros in Mexico. We’re finding immense joy in working on and upgrading her. Virtually every nook has been fine-tuned, every space upgraded. Yet, new ideas for enhancements continue to emerge. Many of our friends suspect that we derive more enjoyment from tinkering than actual sailing. While that might hold some truth, we are still eagerly anticipating the moment when Milagros can finally embrace the water. She longs for a wet belly, and we’re determined to make it happen as soon as possible.

Yes, we’re well aware – once again, we find ourselves working instead of sailing. It’s just the way things are. If you’d like to add a touch of sweetness to our life on this dusty boatyard, you can buy us a beer with a simple click of the button! You can also become a monthly contributor by heading over to Patreon. Thanks a lot!

Der Beitrag The Snowball Effect erschien zuerst auf Milagros.

It was slowly getting hot in Guaymas. And not just a little hot. We were sitting in a sweltering heat like we’ve probably never experienced before. The thermometer reached 40 degrees Celsius practically every day. And then there was the intensity of the sun, too. During the day we mostly hid in the coolness of the air conditioning in a small apartment we had rented for a couple of weeks. We didn’t want to stand on the feet of the painters working on our deck all the time and wanted to let them do their jobs.

Working in the Guaymas heat

The two painters David and Raul suffered from the heat, we could tell. When it got really hot, the pace of her work slowed noticeably. We can’t blame them. The work in the Guaymas oven is brutal. Drinking regularly, taking a break in the shade and not overdoing it was the way to go for them. Sometimes we almost had a guilty conscience towards the two.

Things are going well

But we could see: Something really impressive was on the way! The deck was the final piece in the puzzle for Milagros to become a little masterpiece. Our boat will appear completely transformed. Days and days of fairing and sanding work resulted in perfect surfaces. It’s laborious work but pays off in the end when painting. We ourselves would not have faired and sanded as much as the painting crew. But we didn’t do the work ourselves in the end so all we could do is shut up and watch.

Small projects

Apart from sitting around comfortably in the air conditioning, we also took care of smaller boat projects. For example, our new propeller shaft brake had arrived. The little piece of equipment should prevent us from bending our shaft again in the future. A shaft brake prevents the propeller from spinning freely while sailing. This results in much less stress on the material and less noise.

We also gave our teak a little love. We carefully washed it, lightened it and then oiled it. All with a practical 3-piece teak care set. Worked out great, and the result is really pretty.

Bigger projects

And at some point, the time had come: the first layer of paint was put on the deck! This in the form of a two-component epoxy resin primer, sealing and strengthening the surface. Because it consists of two components, the paint and a hardener, the paint layer is extremely strong. It will protect the old fiberglass of Milagros. After the job was done, we got a first impression of what Milagros would look like with the new paintjob. The white surface literally blinded our eyes. A great moment.

Hot, hot, hot, hot

And what came after the primer? Well, guess. The whole boat was again coated with putty and sanded. For days on end. At up to 47 degrees Celsius (116 °F) air temperature. We were getting tired of the heat. We can only imagine how the painting crew must have felt. Our foster cat Sailor was suffering too, panting when he met us for his food in the evenings. The heat in Guaymas is crazy. Time that we could finally go home. But we couldn’t. Not until our deck was finished. And what’s better than a cold beer to cool down?

Tasty craft beer just around the corner

As always in our blog posts and sailing career, beer is involved. The owner of the boatyard in Guaymas opened a Cervezeria right next to the boatyard with his brother (or so, I don’t remember exactly). Craft beer from Cervezeria Fauna is served there. Of course, we couldn’t miss the opening night. We sat there for hours with Tom and Keith (we met them back in the kingdom of El Mero) and tasted our way through the range of different cervezas. The Boatyard employees were there too, it was a cozy get-together.

Color layers and window delights

The days that followed passed as the ones before did. We passed the mornings working on our computers in the cool apartment we had rented for two weeks. In the evening we headed out into the heat to pay Milagros her daily visit. More layers of paint had been added onto Milagros in the meantime. The cabin was already done! So finally, we could devote ourselves to another monster project. In a moment of weakness, we decided to unmount, completely dismantle, rebedd and reinstall all the windows on Milagros again. Sounds good, but omfg. What a huge freaking job.

A monster of a project

Many a boat owner shies away from this very project. Rightly so. The window project really called for every skill we had learned since purchasing Milagros. I could write an entire blog post about the work on our windows alone. Here is a small excerpt of the work steps:

– Remove the windows

– Take a close look at everything

– Assess what needs to be done

– Find much more work than originally planned

– Seal and smear everything with fiberglass and epoxy

– Clean, drill, Dremel, sand the fiberglass and epoxy

– Clean the frames from a collection of old filler, putty and grout from over 40 years of Milagros

– Have new windows made

– Have everything made and corrected three times until it fits, because Mexico

– Ask yourself «why?»

– Glue the panes into the window frames in a huge mess

– Glue the fitted panes in the window frame, add those to another window frame

– Screw the frames in the frames tight together, add more sealant for yet another mess

– Before reinstalling the windows in the cabin walls, test EVERY ONE of the 100 screws and mark which one their screw hole is, because nothing fits like it did before

– Scream out loud

– Tear your hair (if you still have some)

– In an intermediate step, adapt window frames that do not fit to the windows with some more fairing

– Fit the window frames into the cabin wall with some more sealant in another monstrous mess

– Notice that it is too hot and the sealant dries too quickly

– Come back later

– Keep on sealing like crazy

– Be disturbed by the cat at the dumbest moment

– Just keep going because Sailor is a sweetheart

– Keep messing around all over the place until the job is done

Just like that

That’s pretty much how we remember the procedure. We don’t want to go into any further details here. We’re just glad it’s done. Woe betides a drop of water straying through the windows into our cabin in the future. At some point we were done and we couldn’t have done better. Not because we’re convinced that our job is perfect, but because we simply don’t know if we could have done it any better. Should you be reading this, own a boat and you are considering whether you want to tackle your windows: Think twice. Or maybe even thrice.

Milagros looks like new

And once our windows were in, the painters were soon done too: The deck paintjob was done. And what can we say? Our dear boat looks like new. The new deck paint makes a huuuuuuuge difference. David and Paul really did a great job. Unfortunately, bad news were just around the corner. Problems with our new prop shaft!

Oh crap!

When Salomon from the metal workshop arrived at the boatyard with the object of desire, it quickly became clear: There was a problem. The shaft bearing and the new shaft brake did not fit over the shaft. There was only one thing that could help: the prop shaft had to be taken back to the workshop and made to fit. Shortly afterwards the message came that a whole piece of stainless steel had to be ordered. A worker had simply removed too much material from the shaft in the workshop (2/1000 in instead of 1/1000 in!!!). After we had waited and waited and waited for weeks. Oh dear Mexico, sometimes you’re just a little too much for us. Now we can only take care of the shaft again when we return in winter.

We need to get outta here

Slowly the loooong season began to gnaw at our morale again. Too much heat, too much waiting, too much boatyard, too much boat work. Normally, early in the season, sailors spend a couple of weeks preparing their boats so they can head out as soon as possible when they return. We have spent too much time working on the boat this season. Yes, Milagros is in better shape than ever – but we’ve heard a few times that our working/sailing time ratio is completely out of control. Yes, this season was not easy. But our Swiss perfectionism simply doesn’t allow it any other way sometimes. Next season we will be sailing an absolute gem of a boat. Slowly but surely it was time to stow away Milagros and take a break again.

Mexican party

But before we flew home, there was another celebration in order. And this time, things got really Mexican. We were invited to the birthday party of boatyard employee and crane operator Mario. The event took place shortly before we left in an event hall he had rented for the evening. The two of us, our Australian friends Jen and Cam and about 50 Mexicans joined the party, which started cautiously. Everyone sat at their tables and listened to the warm-up band, a rock cover band made up of Mario’s friends. Armed with freezers and beer supplies, of course. The foreigners were eyed curiously from all sides.

Baila, Baila, Baila

It only really got going when cumbia, classical Mexican music, was put on. Everyone jumped out of their chairs and danced and danced and danced. To everyone’s surprise, the «Gringos» were also taking part in the dancing. The “DJ crew” was made by two dudes on drum sets with all kinds of kettledrums and other drumming equipment, who played along with the music from the speakers. With increasing beer consumption, the fear of contact disappeared and so we took all kinds of funny photos with the guests present. The evening was once again a reminder of what a great people the Mexicans are. Muchas Gracias!

A travel lift ride with consequences

Then it was soon time to move Milagros to their summer location. However, the changeover of locations did not go without damage to Milagros. I’ll spare you the details for now – we already reported on how we were treated by the yard in the last blog post. It shouldn’t get any better. And it won’t get any better in the future either. I can only say this much: We have definitely been to this boatyard for the first and last time. Despite advance warnings from various quarters, we decided to visit – and skilfully stepped in a pile of c***. We only have ourselves to blame. More on that another time.

The end is near

Because the work on our deck (did I notice that it turned out freaking AWESOME?) took a few weeks longer than expected, we had to cut all the preparatory work for the departure, which lasted about two weeks last time, into a few days. It turned out quite stressful. The day before we left, we worked our asses off from 5 a.m. to 10 p.m. just to get it done, after more prep work in the days before. The almost 30-hour return journey back home to Switzerland went smoothly. Time to clear your heads and gather anticipation for your return.

Bad news upon arrival

But as soon as we got home, we had to start worrying again. Facebook and WhatsApp are our main sources for all sailing related news from Mexico. And what did we see? As soon as we left, an impressive and violent storm swept over Guaymas and San Carlos in Mexico. The area is known for raging summer thunderstorms called Chubascos. But this time, things were different. In videos and photos, we saw a wall of wind and dust battering the region. Absurd wind speeds were measured everywhere, power went out, entire brick walls collapsed in the boatyard and more of the aging boatyard electric posts bit the dust and fell over.

And what about Milagros?

Fortunately, Milagros escaped unscathed, she weathered the storm well. But unfortunately bad news also reached us from other sailor friends. The kingdom of El Mero, for example, is no more. It was completely destroyed in the storm. Unfortunately, some friends’ boats were also affected when their dock lines failed and they were washed ashore. Elsewhere, some boats in dry dock have tipped off their stands. We hope for their owners that the damage is manageable.

What’s next?

Well, apparently we’re not spared any frightening moments at the other end of the planet either. That’s the way it is when you embark on an adventure like ours. Why we were more concerned in this case than the last times, we will tell in the next blog post. But for now, it’s time to recharge the sailboat batteries in Switzerland so that we can start another attempt towards the south with fresh motivation. Only the gods of the sea know how far we will come. Things happen all the time.

We really enjoy creating content for you – if you want you can also say thank you by contributing to our beer kitty by clicking the button below. You can also become a monthly contributor by heading over to Patreon. Thanks a lot!

Add to our beer kitty by clicking here!

Der Beitrag Lessons Learned and Memories Made erschien zuerst auf Milagros.

Lucky with the temperatures

I’m writing this 100th blog post here in Guaymas aboard Milagros, while outside sandpaper is being scraped across the deck. It’s 8:30 in the morning and it’s already 31 °C (88 °F) outside. Guaymas is notorious for its brutal summer temperatures, but so far, we have been spared. During the day the thermometer climbs to about 35 °C (95 °F), while at night it cools down a bit, which is really nice. Locals say it’s unusually cool for the time of year! Lucky us!

Outsourcing in Mexico

We decided to outsource the work on the deck. This costs us quite some money, but in the meantime, we can take care of all the smaller projects on the list. The work has to be done by July so we can go home for a few months. We have many, many small jobs to do. The goal is to get Milagros in the water as soon as possible when we return to Mexico in the winter. So, in the mornings we work on our computers, and at noon we get to work on the boat.

An Upgrade for our anchor

Another upgrade that has been ready to go since Puerto Peñasco (and thus over a year) but we never got done is our new anchor swivel. An anchor swivel sits between the anchor and the anchor chain and ensures that the chain doesn’t get twisted as the boat spins all over the place at anchor. So we got out heavy equipment, cut the ancient swivel off the anchor, and installed the new, modern Mantus swivel.

New UV-Cover for a sail

Pati is mainly busy with sewing. For example, our huge headsail needs new UV protection. For this, 65 meters (200 ft) of seams had to be opened, and 160 square feet of old, brittle fabric had to be removed and the same amount of new fabric had to be sewn back on. She set to work in her little sewing room, with the kind help of the mosquitoes that are unfortunately also at home here at the boatyard. It was her first time working on a sail, but she quickly got the hang of it and after about three full days of work, the new cover done. The cover is fancy charcoal gray, of course. Our goal is to replace as much of the blue fabric on the boat with charcoal gray as possible.

Tom rushes to the rescue

The hard sewing work takes its toll. The old lady (not Patricia, although they are actually about the same age) needs a little maintenance and repair here and there. So all of a sudden the trusty old Sailrite would only go from zero to full speed – of course you can’t sew like that. But Tom, the owner of the sewing machine, was immediately on the spot. Together with a friend, he took the pedal apart and found the problem: a contact spring had broken off. On this occasion, he also collected a deposit for the sewing machine rental – a 6-pack of beer per day – which he kindly shared with us right away.

Work on the windows

When returning to the boat last winter in San Carlos we noticed that our windows are slowly but surely starting to leak in various spots. In Pati’s last post you could already witness their removal. Better now than never, because with the painters on board we can make sure that the windows are tight once and for all. We took a close look at the disassembled windows and discovered that, as expected, the sealant had reached the end of its life. Said sealant was no longer fit for sealing purposes, but it was still holding the individual parts together nicely at least.

Mexican boat job experience

What followed was a classic Mexican boat job experience. We decided to take all of our windows to a shop that specialized in making custom windows. First, we did a test run with just one window, because you never know. We instructed the gentlemen to remove the panes for us. Should a pane break during the process, they should make a new one right away. No sooner said than done. The problem, however, only became apparent after we picked up the new glass. The new pane fit into one half of the frame, but not the other. The workers had probably taken the dimensions for only one side and then didn’t even try to see if the new pane would actually fit in the second half of the window. We decided to bring them the rest of our windows anyway, because overall, they did a good job.

A back and forth

When we went to pick them up a few days later, we were astonished. Again, various window panes did not fit. In addition, one of them was scratched, and one had a watermark from the manufacturer. I guess no one had noticed? We’re getting good at guesswork in these kinds of situations. We were assured that the problem would be solved immediately, should only take a few minutes. When we were still waiting after almost 45 minutes, with no end in sight, we said our friendly goodbyes. “Muchas gracias, regresamos mañana” (Thank you very much, but we’ll be back tomorrow).

The curiousities of Mexico

We always experience curious things during while here in Mexico, for example, when we brought the borrowed propeller remover back to the workshop. Patricia entered the deserted workshop ahead of me and walked to the office. As she peered around the corner into the office, she took a few steps backwards. Because a sheep (yes, you read that correctly) walked up to her. Laughing, two gentlemen followed it, one of them the senior boss. Then a second sheep came running from the backyard, followed by three puppies and two dogs. We had entered a zoo, not a workshop! Back at the boatyard, it was back to work.

Scratching and cleaning

The cleaning work on the old, heavy bronze frames began. The old glue and filler had to be removed. Over the years, various attempts at sealing had apparently already taken place, so now it was our turn. Equipped with various scraping tools, we set to work. What remained were beautifully clean window frames, ready for installation. We’ll see how smoothly that would go. Windows (or “portholes”, if you fancy boat terms) on boats are notorious time eaters and major pains in the ass, if a boat owner can ever bring him- or herself to tackle them.

Progress on the deck

Meanwhile, the painters worked their way forward step by step on our deck. Their opinion was the same as ours – it was time for a fresh coat of paint! As always with painting, preparation is 90% of the work. They have been busy sanding and filling the deck for four weeks now. The goal is a perfect surface, nothing more, nothing less. That takes time. The poor guys have to toil outside in the heat, the sun beating down from the sky. Since Pati had already started the sewing machine anyway, she sewed them a sunshade for the whole deck. Those will remain mounted while we’re gone, so that the brutal Mexican UV radiation can do no damage Milagros and her new deck while we are away.

Fun is not neglected either

All this sounds as if we were just slaving away. But that could not be further from the truth. As always, when we are at the boatyard, we only do as much as we feel like. Sometimes 8 hours a day, sometimes two, sometimes none at all. This is how we prevent ourselves from burning out and losing the spirit. Yes, we know that sounds like “complaining on a high comfort level” again, but working on a boat is hard, sometimes complicated and the potential for frustration is immense. Therefore, we try to find a good balance.

Excursions, Party, BBQ

The boatyard is quite empty at this time of the year, but there are still a few cool people here working on their boats. There’s always time for a chat, a BBQ, night outs playing pool with a couple of beers too much (guess on which pictures too much beer was involved) or parties at Hair of the Dog in San Carlos, where I always get to play a song or two on drums with the band. We also made new Mexican acquaintances and are invited for example to great afternoons with lots of Carne Asada. So, time flies and we have lots and lots of fun in addition to all the work.

A cute gift

Under our boat, some very, very cute new friends have moved in. We have become the proud owners of a small dog family. The very pregnant mother showed up at one of our barbecues and decided to give birth to her babies right next to Milagros and in our presence. So so so so so cute. The only problem with this is that the Boatyard does not accept street dogs. They are usually caught directly and “taken away”. Understandable, because in Guaymas the situation with street dogs is out of control to say the least. The government of the city does pretty much nothing and so new dogs are born in every corner of the city.

We build the family a house

In our case and thanks to a little negotiating skill, an exception was made. The dogs are allowed to stay, but they have to be gone when we fly home to Switzerland. Who knows, maybe there will be a happy end for a Mexican street dog family? Of course, we have set all levers and contacts in motion, so that the little family finds a nice home. Without further ado, we set up a camp for them under Milagros, cozy and protected from the Mexican sun. Have we already said how cute the babies are? THEY ARE SO CUTE!!! Mama is also a really great dog; we really need to find a solution!

Step by step

While mom is taking care of her little ones under the boat, boatyard life continues. Step by step we move towards the end of our season. Item after item is checked off our list. Milagros is enjoying her spa treatment and sooner or later she’ll have a brand-new shine. When the deck is done, she will be our masterpiece. We have then literally beautified and improved her from top to bottom. As the German saying goes – constant drips wear away any stone. Life means well with us.

Last but not least we also wanted to say thank you. Thanks for following us on our adventures, for the many, many beer contributions, for the feedback, for the comments. We really enjoy creating content for you – if you want you can also say thank you by contributing to our beer kitty by clicking the button below. You can also become a monthly contributor by heading over to Patreon. Thanks a lot!

100 Blog Posts! Let the beers flow!

Der Beitrag ONE! HUNDRED! BLOG POSTS! erschien zuerst auf Milagros.

With mixed feelings, we were back in the kingdom of El Mero. We were excited to be back in Guaymas – it felt a bit like coming home. But the fact that we were there reminded us once again that we had actually set sail from there ‘forever’ in February but now we were back. There was still a lingering feeling of somehow having failed, even though we had consciously decided to turn back and were okay with it. What do success and failure even mean – especially in the sailing world – and who defines them?

Isn’t success about reaching somewhere safe and having a good time, no matter where you are? Or are we just trying to make ourselves feel better about the fact that we’re now in Mexico and not in Costa Rica or Panama? However you may look at it: we were back, and we were getting Milagros ready for haul-out, knowing that we would be missing out on the best time to be in the Sea of Cortez. But we had plans, and our motto was: No better time than the present.

Picking up an order

One of the first things we did in Guaymas was to pick up an order we had placed with the universe some time ago: a new dinghy. More specifically, a lightweight Walker Bay plastic rowing boat that could also be sailed or powered by an outboard motor. Two sailors in nearby San Carlos wanted to get rid of this sought-after model at an attractive price, and fortunately, we were the first interested buyers. Our huge, heavy inflatable dinghy had been getting on our nerves for quite some time. We were even considering buying boat building plans online and building our own fiberglass dinghy at the boatyard. But that was no longer necessary.

First sailing steps

Dan helped with the transport our new 8-foot-long acquisition to El Mero with his truck. We immediately assembled the dinghy, and I had the honor of going on yet another maiden voyage and sailing it back to Milagros. I had never sailed such a small sailboat before, but the physics of sailing are always the same, and we had learned docking maneuvers under sail on Lake Thun. So, I was able to dock at Milagros and handed over the tiller to David. He also took a few rounds in the anchorage. That was even more fun than expected!

Some sailing fun

Anja and Thomas, two Swiss sailors currently renovating their boat at Marina Guaymas, also stopped by to sail the little boat. Alternating, we zipped around in El Mero with winds reaching up to 4-5 Beauforts. Unfortunately, a previously patched weak spot on the rudder broke again. But then, we rolled up our sleeves and fixed the issue on the spot. In the process, we learned something new: when mixed together, super glue and baking soda create a super-strong adhesive that can even stick to plastic.

It gets complicated

While we anchored in El Mero, we had another mission. The biggest project we wanted to tackle was renewing Milagros’ deck. We had already received a quote from a local painter, but a few days before hauling out at Marina Guaymas, we found out that we had been missing some crucial information. It turned out that this painter was considered an external worker by Marina Guaymas, which would have resulted in a daily fee of between 35 and 50 USD. Since the sanding and painting work would take up to 6 weeks, this would have meant an additional 1,500 USD in unnecessary costs. So, we had to find another man for the job. Luckily, we found one quickly: David (yes, he has the same name), the house painter of Marina Guaymas, had availability and could start immediately. The best part was: his reputation is excellent. Gentlemen, start your sanding machines!

Not doing it ourselves?

If you’re wondering why we are not doing do this work ourselves, it’s not that we couldn’t—we’ve been through the whole process before with the hull. But because of that, we knew exactly what to expect. That’s why we’re willing to spend the money and focus on other projects in the meantime.

One last adventure

The last trip of the season with Milagros turned out to be quite adventurous. It took about 45 minutes from El Mero to reach the haul-out area. Tim from SV Coconut accompanied us to help with the lines. In the Marina Guaymas office, we had to provide our draft of 6’6”, and based on that, they had given us our haul-out appointment. So, we assumed that the entire route would be navigable for us at that time. We knew that the water wouldn’t be very deep in the last third of the route, so we followed a safe passage marked in the navigation software, which other sailors we know had already followed. Our depth sounder is set to water depth, so when we see 15 ft, we still have 8 ft under the keel.

Enough water?

As we followed this safe route, we watched the depth sounder very closely. When it showed 10 ft, we started to get quite nervous. Then the reading kept dropping: 9 ft, 8 ft, 7.5 ft. Mentally, we were already preparing to get stuck. Luckily, the tide was rising, so in the worst case, we would have had to wait. But we believed that the water was deep enough. Why else would they give us this haul-out appointment?

Milagros takes flight again

As we entered the narrow haul-out slip, the depth sounder showed 6’6” (2 meters) – so there was no “hand’s width of water left under the keel” (which in German sailing language is used as an expression comparing to “Fair Winds”). In theory, we had run aground with Milagros. The crane was already ready, and we had to “simply” remove the forestay, which turned out to be a bit more challenging than expected. This front mast support had to be removed because the crane has a U-shape, and we are at the upper limit of the crane’s length with our boat. That is definitely a disadvantage compared to Cabrales Boatyard in Puerto Peñasco. Their crane is significantly larger, so you don’t have to remove any stays.

Mud tracks

When Milagros was standing on stands at her new location, it was clearly visible that we had run aground, not just theoretically. We officially ran aground with Milagros for the first time! We hadn’t noticed anything; the keel had simply ploughed into the mud. When David brought our boat documents to the office afterward, he mentioned what had happened. After looking at the tide table, it quickly became clear what had happened. They had given us the wrong haul-out time! We had trusted that they knew what they were doing because hauling out is their daily business. They had also asked us several times for our exact draft. Once again, we learned that you have to use your brain yourself.

Here we go

Shortly after our arrival at the dry dock, the sanding work on the deck began. We took this opportunity to remove all the portholes. What we uncovered underneath confirmed that we were doing the right thing. The deck consists of a fiberglass-plywood-fiberglass sandwich. It is crucial to prevent moisture from penetrating the plywood because that would cause the wood to rot and compromise the stability of the structure. So, the wood must not be exposed anywhere. However, the wood had not been sealed where the porthole openings were cut. It was also evident that the sealant had failed at one window, allowing moisture to seep in. It was high time to seal everything. Again, no better time than the present. It also seemed like we were the first ones to remove these windows in Milagros’ 45 years of existence.

A new propeller shaft

Being on the boatyard for us meant: On your marks, get set, start the projects! We wanted to get as much done as possible now so that we could quickly leave the boatyard in the fall. Besides the deck, we had two main tasks: installing a new propeller shaft and adding a new UV cover to the headsail. First, we wanted to remove the presumably bent shaft so that we could get quotes for a new one. However, the propeller wouldn’t budge an inch. It wasn’t until the fourth attempt, after WD40, PB Blaster, heat, blows, and with the third propeller puller and a bit of luck – David happened to find a perfectly fitting part on the ground next to the boat – that we finally managed to remove it. We are curious to hear what the mechanics will say about the condition of our shaft…

The sewing workshop is open

For the new UV cover on the headsail, we were able to borrow Tom’s Sailrite industrial sewing machine in exchange for some beer. Keith, a sailor from El Mero, delivered the machine from Arizona, where it had been waiting for its next use somewhere in a dark corner for a few years. The Marina Guaymas kindly provided me with a room that I could transform into my sewing workshop for the following weeks. To prepare for the big project, I started with smaller tasks. The sail kit of our dinghy got a new storage bag, a lost hatch cover was replaced, and a new cockpit cushion was sewn. And just for the fun of it, I sewed some beautiful bags out of a former light wind sail.

If you would like to have such a bag, feel free to contact me.

We are slowly but surely getting into the boatyard flow, and one project after another can be checked off. That’s how we like it!

Did you enjoy this blog post? You can contribute to our beer kitty by clicking the button below. You can also become a monthly contributor by heading over to Patreon. Thanks a lot!

Beer time

Der Beitrag No Better Time Than The Present erschien zuerst auf Milagros.